I Love Surfing In Oregon. I Love My Black Wetsuit That Makes Me Feel Like A Super Hero. I Love The Rush Of Cold Water To My Face As I Plunge Into My First Duck Dive Of A Session. I Love Shifty Beach Breaks; Where No One Knows For Sure Where The Peak Will Be. I Love Surfing With All My Boys. I Love Those Rarer Days When I Get To Surf With My Girls.
I Have Surfed Days Where It Has Been So Cold That When You Get Out Of The Water Your Hand Starts To Freeze To Your Surfboard. I Have Been Alone In The Ocean When It Has Started Snowing On Me And Everything Becomes So Quiet. I Have Cried On Big Days In The Cove When I Was So Scarred And Frustrated. I Have Surfed Those Days That Take All Your Energy Just To Get To The Outside, Only Then To Be Outside And Realize I Do Not Want To Be Out Here At All. Some Days I Will Try So Hard And Only Catch One Wave Because The Waves Are Beyond My Skill. Other Days I Will Catch Hundreds Of Tiny Fun, Fish Style Waves. I Have Been Out On Perfect Days Where It Has Been Only My Buddies And I Sharing So Much Stoke For Each Other, Wave After Wave. Sometimes The Waves Look Horrible From The Beach, Only To Surprise You When You Paddle Out There.
I Was Surfing In The Cove Years Ago. All The Guys Were Barking Over By Shore Break And I Wanted Space So I Paddled North To Be Alone. A Wave Was Coming From Outside And I Started Paddling For The Wave. Just As I Was Ready To Pull In, I Was Looking Left And A Huge Baby Gray Whale Pulled In Beside Me And Started To Ride The Wave. I Immediately Pulled Out Of The Wave, Started Laughing And Yelled Out “The Waves All Yours!” I Sat In Awe Watching The Backlit Green Waves And A Giant Baby Whale Surfing All The Way Into The Cove Until He Disappeared Back Into The Depths. I Looked Out To Sea And Saw The Baby’s Mama Breach Outside. I Then Looked Over To The Boys Barking At Each Other, None Of Them Had Just Seen What I Had Seen.
