I Love Surfing In Oregon!

I Love Surfing In Oregon!

I Love Surfing In Oregon. I Love My Black Wetsuit That Makes Me Feel Like A Super Hero. I Love The Rush Of Cold Water To My Face As I Plunge Into My First Duck Dive Of A Session. I Love Shifty Beach Breaks; Where No One Knows For Sure Where The Peak Will Be. I Love Surfing With All My Boys. I Love Those Rarer Days When I Get To Surf With My Girls.

I Have Surfed Days Where It Has Been So Cold That When You Get Out Of The Water Your Hand Starts To Freeze To Your Surfboard. I Have Been Alone In The Ocean When It Has Started Snowing On Me And Everything Becomes So Quiet. I Have Cried On Big Days In The Cove When I Was So Scarred And Frustrated. I Have Surfed Those Days That Take All Your Energy Just To Get To The Outside, Only Then To Be Outside And Realize I Do Not Want To Be Out Here At All. Some Days I Will Try So Hard And Only Catch One Wave Because The Waves Are Beyond My Skill. Other Days I Will Catch Hundreds Of Tiny Fun, Fish Style Waves. I Have Been Out On Perfect Days Where It Has Been Only My Buddies And I Sharing So Much Stoke For Each Other, Wave After Wave. Sometimes The Waves Look Horrible From The Beach, Only To Surprise You When You Paddle Out There.

I Was Surfing In The Cove Years Ago. All The Guys Were Barking Over By Shore Break And I Wanted Space So I Paddled North To Be Alone. A Wave Was Coming From Outside And I Started Paddling For The Wave. Just As I Was Ready To Pull In, I Was Looking Left And A Huge Baby Gray Whale Pulled In Beside Me And Started To Ride The Wave. I Immediately Pulled Out Of The Wave, Started Laughing And Yelled Out “The Waves All Yours!” I Sat In Awe Watching The Backlit Green Waves And A Giant Baby Whale Surfing All The Way Into The Cove Until He Disappeared Back Into The Depths. I Looked Out To Sea And Saw The Baby’s Mama Breach Outside. I Then Looked Over To The Boys Barking At Each Other, None Of Them Had Just Seen What I Had Seen.

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Welcome to the team Justin Buford! Justin has been a part of the shop since we opened in 2010. He was a true local grom who would spend his days skateboarding in our parking lot and washing rental wetsuits when he wasn’t in school. His family lived just up the street and his step-dad is one of the best surfers in town. His brother-in-law comes from the legendary South County Surf family the Ledbetters. Surfing is who and what Justin is, it’s in his blood. 
It felt a lot like home, Ireland. I suppose in a bizarre way it is, as my ancestors planted their roots in county Sligo on the North West coast of the country in the early 1700's after immigrating from Scotland. Ireland has been at the top of my travel list since long before I found out there was surf there. I formed images in my head of what the landscape would look like from seeing pictures, videos and hearing stories of infamous rocky basalt point breaks and shallow heaving slabs. Every image I had crafted fell short in comparison to seeing it all in person for the first time.
Houdini was the ultimate escape artist of his time, and it’s pretty obvious that this was the reasoning behind the naming of the Firewire Houdini; a board built with large, powerful barrels in mind, as well as the act of disappearing into those barrels and then escaping while still standing. So will the Firewire Houdini have you escaping the best barrels of your life, or will you suffer the same fate as the namesake with a fatal punch in the gut when you paddle out into some bombing lineup?
“You’ve got to pay to play” or something along those lines, is what we tell ourselves whenever a board is broken during a session. When you get comfortable enough in waves that require a step-up board like Lost’s Sabo-Taj model, the likelihood of snapping it is pretty high. Extra glassing offered from many shapers can help, but it still takes just one bad wipeout or mistimed positioning to kiss your favorite PU board goodbye. So when Lib-Tech took its “dang difficult to ding” technology and combined it with Lost Surfboard’s slab hunting Sabo-Taj, could a board be born that finally holds up to heavy conditions? Let’s find out….